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'Made in England', sold on Savile Row - but  

2008-12-02 11:24:20|  分类: 我看时尚圈 |  标签: |举报 |字号 订阅

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Made in England, sold on Savile Row - but - 月之海 - 月之海@View

A leading Savile Row tailor, Richard James, sold "Made inEngland" suits produced by cheap labour in Africa, The Independentcan disclose today.(SeletedfromIndependent)

 

For two years workers on the island of Mauritius – paid afraction of the wage of a British craftsman – cut the fabric andstitched the suits which sold for between £500 and £2,000.

When the suits arrived in the UK, workers in Norwich "finished"the garments by sewing on sleeves and buttons and pressing them.The suits then carried labels stating "Made in England" eventhough, according to Mr James's company, no more than 25 per centof the work was done in the UK.

Mr James denied he had misled customers. However, earlier thismonth, after a complaint from a rival tailor, Trading Standardsofficers ruled foreign-made suits should no longer be marketed asEnglish. As a result, Mr James, whose garments are sold at HarveyNichols and Harrods in Britain and at retailers from Beverly Hillsto Tokyo, has agreed to remove the labels.

Country of origin will be omitted from new labels. Sean Dixon,the managing director of Mr James's company, insists he has notmisled customers or done anything "illegal or wrong".

The Savile Row tailors Anderson & Shepherd andNorton & Sons said they were pleased customers werebecoming aware of the provenance of clothing sold in the vicinityof the famous London street. Traditional firms have been fightingto preserve the reputation of Savile Row tailoring since theemergence of rival shops in the area which offer clothing for afraction of the typical £3,000 price for a hand-made suit.

Mr James has been a star of the Mayfair tailoring scene sinceopening a shop on Savile Row in 1992. He is discreet about hisclient list but it includes Sir Elton John and Hugh Dancy.

Mr James was named the Bespoke Tailor of the Year by the BritishFashion Council this week.However, as he attended a glittering ceremony he was about to beengulfed in a row about his ready-wear and made-to-measure suits –which are made by several companies.

One is Wensum Tailoring in Norwich, which moved most of itsproduction to Mauritius in late 2005, with the loss of 135 jobs inthe UK. Clients of Wensum choose which labels to use. A minority,including Richard James and John Lewis, specified the African-madesuits carry a "Made in England" label.

Simon Glendenning, Wensum's managing director, said advice froma London law firm indicated the labels were legal because a"substantial" part of production had been carried out in Britain.However, after the introduction of new anti-rogue traderlegislation in May, Norfolk County Council advised Wensum on 14November that the position could not be sustained.

John Lewis withdrew its own-label suits made by Wensum and MrJames agreed to remove the labels. "We have done nothing wrong. Wehave abided by all the rules," Mr Dixon, of Richard James, said."We were offering customers value for money. I don't think we weremisleading."

Tony Lutwyche, a Soho tailor whose clients include Gordon Ramsayand whose clothes are wholly made in England, made the complaint toTrading Standards. Mr Lutwyche said: "Made in England means a lotaround the world. It's a badge of quality."


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